Why are alliums (onions, leeks, garlic, scallions) used in savory recipes in cuisines all over the world?

It's obviously an important ingredient in building appealing savory flavor since it is used universally -- across cultures and and cuisines. But what, exactly, does it provide? What, chemically, is happening? Allium in oil isn't sweet, bitter, or umami... but of course it is delicious. My favorite smell in the world is onions being sauteed in butter.

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